Jaisalmer: A Journey Through Colors and Shadows

Hello, everyone! Following a brief break after Diwali and some thrilling travels, I'm thrilled to return with the next installment of my Rajasthan diaries. Get ready for an engaging narrative that will showcase the varied spectrum of my experiences in Jaisalmer, offering insights into both the positive and challenging moments.

Jaisalmer earned its nickname thanks to the unique yellow stone that graces its buildings, imparting a warm, golden hue. Whether you're exploring the iconic Jaisalmer Fort or wandering through the captivating havelis, this local stone adds a touch of magic. When the sun paints the sky during sunrise and sunset, the entire city transforms into a breathtaking panorama of gold, creating a scene you absolutely shouldn't miss.

Jaisalmer City and it's Iconic Fort

Transportation, Lodging and Lounging

We started towards Jaisalmer from Chhotaram Prajapat’s stay at around 7.30 AM and covering a distance of around 275 KM, we reached our destination between 2-3 PM, with a lunch break in between. The trip cost us approximately Rs. 4,000.

As we embarked on the journey to Jaisalmer, the roads subtly hinted at the impending desert adventure awaiting us. The earth transitioned into a vibrant shade of yellow, trees transformed their appearance, and signs of human habitation became increasingly sparse. Agricultural fields diminished, replaced by expansive open landscapes, occasionally interrupted by the graceful presence of sand dunes, adding a touch of drama to the evolving scenery.

In Jaisalmer, settling into Hotel Oasis Haveli, a converted haveli with essential amenities, we opted for the seemingly enchanting 'room with Jaisalmer Fort view.' However, the city's chaotic charm disrupted the promised spectacle, offering more distractions than delights. My suggestion: resist the temptation of such promises; the true enchantment of Jaisalmer lies beyond your room's confines.

Jaisalmer's attempt to mimic Udaipur's rooftop terrace allure falls short. Skip the haveli hotels in pursuit of that charm. Surprisingly, Cafe Meraki emerges as one of the exceptions, offering a delightful alternative with superb food and a pleasing ambiance, and it's owner's insights valuable for the modern traveler navigating Jaisalmer.

Jaisalmer Sightseeing

Time Travel Through Havelis

Jaisalmer Haveli

Jaisalmer's havelis are like windows to the past. Patwon Ki Haveli, Salim Singh Ki Haveli, and Nathmal Ki Haveli, each a masterpiece, showcase the wealth and stories of rich families. The intricate carvings, charming balconies, and timeless atmosphere transport you to a bygone era. For a taste of history, visit just one. Note: Tickets are cash-only; UPI not accepted in most havelis.

Cherish the Rarity, Jaisalmer's Living Fort

Jaisalmer Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, stands as a sublime representation of Rajasthan's architectural brilliance. This rare living fort is home to palaces, Jain temples, and ornate havelis, each echoing stories of a glorious past. What sets it apart is its dynamic essence—it's not just a historical relic but a bustling hub with homes, shops, and temples. Wandering through its narrow alleys unveils a captivating fusion of history and cultural heritage.

Special tip: Avoid the palace within the fort; it lacks maintenance, and the walls are home to bats, creating an unpleasant atmosphere. On a brighter note, consider exploring Café Daa, a recent addition near the fort's entrance. With a charming setting, delectable cuisine, and a peaceful atmosphere, it offers a pleasant retreat from the crowded fort, where persistent guides compete for attention.

Jaisalmer Fort, a Living Fort

Visit Gadsisar Lake

photo credit: Abhijeet

Gadsisar Lake, an artificial reservoir on Jaisalmer's outskirts, crafted by Maharaja Gadsi Singh in the 14th century, holds historical significance. As a crucial water conservation reservoir, it is adorned with temples, shrines, and artistically crafted chattris (cenotaphs). Boating on the lake provides a serene view of Jaisalmer's landscape. While we indulged in a boat ride to satisfy the kids' curiosity, for those familiar with cities like Bangalore abundant in lakes, the experience might lack novelty.

Be Inspired by the Work of a Nonagenarian

Founded by retired teacher N.K. Sharma (90 years old now), Desert Cultural Centre, despite its less-maintained exhibition and puppet show, stands as a beacon preserving Rajasthan's heritage. Mr. Sharma's inspiring story of dedicating his life to promoting the art and heritage of Rajasthan, building the centre using his own funds, and writing books serves as a valuable lesson in an era dominated by commodification. I recommend visiting the centre only if you want to witness the embodiment of Mr. Sharma's passion.

Puppet Show at Desert Culture Centre

You can cover all these locations in a day, reserving an additional two days to immerse yourself in the desert experience and visit the Longewala border, shaping it into a comprehensive 3-day tour.

Jaisalmer Reflections: Melancholy in Hues

Jaisalmer's vibrant art scene brings joy, but the struggles of present-day artists are disheartening, evoking a constant sense of melancholy. Traditional arts demand skill, practice, and intellect, which these artists possess. In today's age of TV and phones, the audience appreciating such skills has dwindled. Their unique talents, if promoted correctly, could be an asset for our country. By creating suitable platforms, we can boost art tourism. Currently, with limited travel season and a lack of better job options, these artists resort to menial jobs. In our pursuit of technology-driven wealth, we risk forgetting the world and the intelligence of these artists. Reviving them means reviving our culture, connecting with our roots, and fostering national progress beyond technology, establishing a brand across various fields. Sharing an interesting YouTube video featuring Anagha Ghaisas, who has made remarkable strides in transforming the lives of weavers, inspiring us with a path to foster positive change in this regard.

With that sentiment, I bid farewell, anticipating my return with new posts detailing the desert safari and visit to Longewala Border. 

For those intrigued, a concise history of Jaisalmer awaits your exploration - delve in here.