Rajasthan Diaries: Discovering the Charms of Salawas Village near Jodhpur

During the planning of my Rajasthan adventure, I embarked on a Google quest for 'village stays in Rajasthan,' and there it was, gleaming at the top of the search results – 'Chhotaram Prajapat's Homestay.' The photos exuded rustic charm, beckoning me to explore further. I reached out to Mr. Chhotaram, and as he described the package options, his authenticity and warmth won me over. I eagerly booked a 2-night stay, and somewhere deep within, I sensed that I was about to embark on an exhilarating and unforgettable experience.

We took a cab for our trip to Salawas village, located 20 km before Jodhpur, where our homestay awaited. We set off around 7:30 AM, and the journey lasted approximately 6 hours, encompassing breakfast and lunch breaks, as well as our brief visit to the renowned Ranakpur Temple. The ride amounted to 4000 rupees. The poha and tea we had at the temple's canteen were enjoyable. However, the temple's unwelcoming ambiance, extensive list of devotee conduct regulations, and the practice of charging varying amounts based on proximity to the sanctum hindered my ability to establish a connection with the place. I have consistently felt a deeper connection with small, unassuming, peaceful temples that provide a serene space for meditation, as opposed to grand ones that often feel like visiting a commercial enterprise where the granting of our wishes is linked to the amount we can pay. It's truly remarkable how the human beings often believe that they can sway or manipulate the mighty force governing the entire universe by making offerings or bribes. Apologies for the digression; let's return to the trip.

pc: Abhijeet

Upon arrival at Mr. Chhotaram's stay, we discovered a delightful collection of huts nestled within the courtyard of Mr. Chhotaram's rural residence. These huts offered a comfortable ambiance with adequate lighting and ceiling fans. Since it was a village stay, conveniences like a TV or air conditioning were not available, but this didn't bother us. We prefer to abstain from them during our journeys to fully immerse ourselves in the authentic experiences. Furthermore, the use of traditional rock flooring and cow dung-covered walls, in accordance with rural customs, helped maintain a pleasant atmosphere within the hut. The hut itself was spacious and included a generously sized washroom. The walls were adorned with simple, hand-drawn pictures. These unpretentious yet thoughtfully designed huts quickly won our hearts.

The accommodation was impeccably clean. They provided us with three delicious, homely meals daily, tailored to our preferred spice levels. We had the pleasure of savoring authentic Rajasthani cuisine, including delicacies like bajre ki roti-ghee, gudh, daal/kadhi, and dishes like gatte ki sabzi and ker sangri, both quintessential Rajasthani fare. We thoroughly enjoyed the meals. Mr. Chhotaram and his extensive family extended a warm welcome. Their exceptional hospitality and well-mannered demeanor ensured that we were exceptionally well taken care of. They treated us as if we were part of their own extended family. We seamlessly became part of their daily routines, with our kids playing alongside his. My daughter even assisted the younger ones with their studies. The simplicity and carefree nature of Chhotaram's children deeply resonated with my own, who were born in the city and often witnessed children constantly preoccupied with various concerns despite having all the luxuries at their disposal. Chhotaram's children didn't possess any fancy toys or extravagant possessions, yet the joy they found in their playtime was something my own children couldn't experience in the city's extensive complexes with designated play areas, pristine environments, and a wide range of equipment. 

An interesting experience involved a young girl from the neighboring house. During one of our strolls, She extended a warm invitation to my daughter to participate in a garba dance celebration organized in honor of Navaratri. Coming from a background of witnessing elaborate and ostentatious celebrations in the city, where people often focus more on flaunting their expensive attire and salon-perfected makeup than enjoying the dance, I wanted my kids to experience a simpler celebration. We readily accepted her invitation, and the experience turned out to be thoroughly enjoyable. It was unadorned, drama-free, without any displays or extravagance, but it radiated a genuine and heartwarming atmosphere. The girl made my daughter feel at ease and they had nice chats. I admired her for her openness and confidence in reaching out, despite social and language barriers. I suggested my daughter give one of her new accessories as a keepsake, which we could replace later. My daughter hesitated and chose something less interesting. To her surprise, the girl from a humble background gave her multiple, better accessories in return. My daughter realized the girl had shared her best possessions without expecting replacements. This experience was a valuable life lesson for her.

For me, I found ample quiet moments while the kids were engrossed in play, a rare occurrence back in Bangalore. I indulged in reading, meditation, and singing to my heart's content, something nearly impossible in my daily life. Seated beneath a small champa tree, I rendered compositions in various ragas. The village environment harmonized with the lyrics, bringing them to life amidst nature, the rising and setting sun, the vast openness, the moon, and the melodious chirping of birds. It was a truly extraordinary experience for me.

Over the course of two days, Chhotaram guided us on a village safari where we had the opportunity to witness various crafts such as dhurrie weaving, block printing, and pottery. The experiences were highly educational for me, as I have a deep interest in comprehending the intricate processes behind such creative endeavors. Then he led us to a more remote area, where we relished the sight of a lake teeming with migratory birds and even had the privilege of spotting the elusive black buck. We savored freshly picked berries from the bushes as Chhotaram shared a captivating local folklore about the village Shikarpura.

Block printing

Dhurrie Weaving

Siberian Demoiselle Cranes (pc: Abhijeet)

Conversations with Chhotaram revealed his surprising breadth of knowledge, spanning topics like online trading, SEO for marketing, and much more. Given his responsibilities within a joint family and the shared property, he recognized the need for multiple income sources, and was committed to keeping himself informed and up-to-date even in a remote village. During the pandemic, he had ingeniously offered online Indian cookery classes for foreigners and engaged in other activities to sustain his livelihood. His intelligence was truly remarkable. An important lesson to glean from him and his family is the art of maintaining one's roots while staying attuned to the evolving world. Our visit to this stay has etched a permanent place in our hearts. The recollections of the village still evoke tears in my kids' eyes.

Tips and Suggestions:

1. When considering this stay in a remote village, be prepared for minor inconveniences like warm afternoons and less-than-ideal restroom conditions.

2. Keep in mind that as most of Chhotaram's guests are foreigners, he may tend to glorify or exaggerate certain things that you might find quite ordinary.

3. As this is a remote village, it's unlikely to find supplies like soft drinks, pre-packaged food, or toiletries readily available. 

4. If you can't appreciate simple food and a quiet lifestyle, this place may not be suitable for you.Please be aware that the surrounding village may not be very clean. If you have dreams of taking solitary walks or expect picturesque villages akin to those found in Konkan or Kerala, you may find yourself greatly disappointed.

I trust you found this post both enjoyable and informative. In my upcoming posts, I'll be sharing my distinctive encounters in Jaisalmer, so please stay tuned!